The “English” Cemetery is a remarkable place with a unique history. Established by the Swiss in 1827, it served as a final resting place for non-Catholics who were not permitted burial within the city of Florence. The cemetery isn’t owned or operated by any English entity. Nor is it exclusively a place for the English dead (although quite a few of the deceased here were English). So why the name? No idea. I could Google it, but I won’t. I like the mystery.
Due to the great diversity of the dead in almost every respect, a more accurate name perhaps would be something to honour this diversity. Not that I am about to start a campaign. As I said, I like the mystery. Also, the quirky bent of the English character lends itself well to this place. My admiration increased when I read the list of “types” of people that were (and still are) accepted to be buried here. This is the final resting place for Protestants, Anglicans, Orthodox, Masons, atheists, stillborns, suicides, poor folks, serfs, slaves, servants, ordinary people, nobles, exiles, debtors, those in mixed marriages, and people with tuberculosis, among others.
From my somewhat unconventional perspective, the English Cemetery stands out as one of the most captivating gardens of Florence. I doubt many places contain this special mix of elements (as we say in the world of landscape architecture). Towering, majestic cypress trees, delicate wildflower meadow, and dramatic tombstone sculptures. All combined! It might not have the size or grandeur of the Boboli Garden or the Iris Gardens. But its every bit as distinctive, only more.
The elliptical plan of the cemetery and its dramatic raised form with sloping plane towards the River Arno inspired Swiss painter Arnold Böcklin to create “The Island of the Dead.” I read the cemetery also inspired writers and poets. I’m not surprised. It has the quality to stir the imagination.
Not least, it is a quiet and calm place. Yes, another place to slip away from the intensity of crowds hugging the famous attractions! Yes, slip away. From time to time. That’s what we like to do!
Sea Lions Guide to Firenze 